Croatia is a well-marketed destination, especially given the recent Game of Thrones fame. Deservingly so. The Dalmatian Coast is dotted with medieval towns, vineyards and olive groves over the dramatic backdrop of the Adriatic Sea. Large numbers of tourists visit Dubrovnik every summer, but shockingly few extend their trip into Croatia's neighbour, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
For those of my generation who grew up watching images of cities under siege, snipers, and other forms of destruction during the Balkan Wars, Bosnia and Herzegovina carries a somewhat third-world image. Out of the six nations created from the former Yugoslavia (Serbia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Slovenia, Croatia), Bosnia & Herzegovina has the lowest GDP per capita. At $9,833 per capita in 2014 (World Bank), Bosnia is among the least wealthy countries in Europe.
The Government of Canada recommends that you "exercise a high degree of caution (regarding) the risk of unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance, particularly in isolated mountainous areas and in the countryside" while traveling in Bosnia. The war-torn image coupled with discouraging travel advisory is an easy excuse to skip over this country.
Driven by cautious curiosity though, we rented a car in Dubrovnik and spent two days exploring a small southern portion of this under-marketed country. It turned out to be by far my favourite part of the trip, and I highly recommend visiting Bosnia.
At the danger of sounding like an ignorant spoiled brat, I admit that it takes a lot to wow me nowadays. After seeing the grand boulevards of Paris, the blue fishing boats in Essaouira, and the Potala Palace in Tibet, the standards for impressiveness increase. Consequently, I have a craving for what is exotic, in other words, what is different from things I have already seen and experienced. From this point of view, Bosnia is perfect. The country, having been under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years, is blessed with a unique cultural melange of European and Turkish influences. Approximately half of the country's population is of Islamic faith with the other half made up of Eastern Orthodox and Catholics. The image of a Catholic church and a mosque standing side-by-side is iconic, and reminds one that peaceful coexistence is possible.
After exiting Croatia, we followed M20 until Trebinje, then getting on M6 all the way to Zavala, our first stop in Bosnia.
Travel Note:
Located in Zavala, Vjetrenica is the largest cave system in Bosnia, rich in biodiversity. Although most visitors enter the cave with its hourly guided tours, we were allowed to venture out on our own, equipped with hard hats and a flashlight. It is a dark, slippery 30-minute walk until the end of the trail. Other-worldly stalactites and stalagmites welcomed us, and I really enjoyed the visit. We even found an amphibious salamander called Proteus anguinus resting in a small pond. Kind of gross, so google at your own risk.
Travel Note:
We had our first meal in Bosnia at a nearby restaurant in Zavala. The restaurant had a large covered outdoor dining area, overlooking a valley of vines and thorny vegetation. Our first introduction to Bosnian cuisine seemed straight-forward: everything grilled. I ordered cevapcici (Bosnian meatballs). As soon as our orders were placed, two middle-aged Bosnian ladies got to work. The cooking area was equipped with old-school charcoal grills, and they stood there, hand fanning our food to perfection. Cevapcici was served with a generous side of grilled vegetables and fries. Slightly greasy, but delicious.
We continued our journey on M6 to Blagaj. Blagaj is a village-town 15 minutes south of Mostar, our final destination for the day. It is situated at the origin of the Buna river and houses a Dervish monastery which is still in use. I had seen too many photos of Blagaj prior to the trip that it was a little disappointing in person. However, the surreal emerald blue Buna, a steep cliff under which the Dervish monastery sits, and cold breezes from the cave made this spiritual spot dreamlike.
Travel Note:
It was a short drive from Blagaj to Mostar. Mostar is the fifth largest city in Bosnia, but it felt quaint and intimate. We stayed at Muslibegovic House, which is a national monument and doubles up as a hotel. Highly recommended. Where else do you get to sleep in a 19th century aristocratic house built in Turkish style? The lady in charge kindly offered us complimentary drinks to cool us down when we arrived, and was thoughtful and attentive throughout our stay. The house is adorned with intricate Turkish wood carvings, carpets and furniture. Definitely one of the most impressionable accommodations that I have ever stayed at.
We ate dinner at Sadrvan, a restaurant recommended by our hotel, where the theme of everything grilled continued. Onions and peppers stuffed with meat, cheese and grains were heavenly. I was particularly flabbergasted to see dolmades (meat and rice wrapped in vine leafs), a delicacy I first tasted in Greece four years ago. Servings in Bosnia are so generous that what is recommended for one person can feed two.
I felt safer walking at midnight in Mostar than parts of Toronto or Chicago. Since our visit was during Ramadan, the streets were vibrant and lively past midnight with people celebrating and kids eating ice cream.
Next morning, we were out and about early to beat the group tours from Sarajevo and Dubrovnik reaching Mostar around midday.
The Old Bridge in Mostar is an icon. Prior to my trip, I read The Fracture Zone by Simon Winchester. He describes a dramatic moment during the Bosnian War:
"The bridge was built well, and for a while it stood up to the barrage of shellfire from the Croats on the hills above town. The Muslims, with a mixture of pride, affection and simple economic need, tried their best to protect the old structure with automobile tires, hung over the edge as fenders, to minimize damage from shrapnel. But they were no match for the sustained and willful cannonade. One day late that autumn, and with an exhausted and exasperated roar that could be heard above the gunfire, the old bridge collapsed, its last stones - which had been painstakingly carved by Turkish masons in 1566 - crashing into the canyon and being swept downstream with the current. One should not mourn lost architecture so much as lost people, I suppose: But this was one of the loveliest bridges in the world"
The bridge was finally reconstructed in 2004, reviving as many artistic and technical details of the original bridge as possible. The engineers quarried fragments of the original bridge from the riverbed, and incorporated them into the new bridge. It is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Next, we were on a mission to find a wedding present for our two newlywed friends, A & P. There is a bazaar, full of shops selling everything from tacky souvenirs to world-class ceramic arts, metalwork and paintings. We wanted to find something as authentically Bosnian as possible.
It was surprisingly easy to find our guy. Unlike other shopkeepers who were saluting passing tourists, Adnan was focused on his work (within the comfort of air conditioning). Adnan is an even-tempered Bosniak who specializes in copper art. All the works displayed in the shop are his babies. We bought a handmade copper artwork which features pomegranates, a symbol of Mostar and prosperity and fertility. I can't wait to tell A & P that I wish them a life of prosperity and lots of children!
It was a boiling hot 40 degrees in Mostar, and we were ready to hit the road.
Pocitelj is located 30 minutes south of Mostar by car. It is a small fortified village located on the left bank of the river Neretva, in existence since the Middle Ages. It was a steep 10-minute hike to the top of the hill on which the watchtower is located. It offers a vantage point, overlooking the river valley.
Pocitelj is on the tentative list for UNESCO, but there was only a handful of tourists and souvenir vendors around. It was a precious experience, absorbing the atmosphere amongst this idyllic scenery and timelessness.
We walked into a fruit vendor by the highway. We bought a dozen of ripe peaches. "2 marks" (= $1.50), she said with a smile. I grabbed a couple of Bosnian peppers. How much is it now? "2 marks". Obviously she doesn't do this for money. "These peppers are from my garden", she said with a hint of agrarian pride. Her kindness and contagious smile reminded me again of how hospitable Bosnians have been to us.
We were headed to the infamous Kravice Waterfalls next, located half an hour away by car. Unlike Pocitelj, be prepared to be surrounded by herds of Polish, Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian tourists.
Standing under a waterfall blew all my fatigue away after roaming around Bosnia in 40 degree weather. There was a group of middle-aged men with beer bellies, standing under large offshoots of the waterfalls, probably in great pain, as if it was a symbol of their masculinity.
Kravice was the last stop on our two-day Bosnian odyssey, and we headed back to Dubrovnik. I lament that we didn't have sufficient time to travel to Sarajevo and explore other parts of the country.
Prior to my trip, people raised their eyebrows when I mentioned "Bosnia", and asked "What's there to see?". The beauty of the Balkan Peninsula doesn't stop at the Croatian border. It extends well into Bosnia where people of multiple religions and ethnicities live in harmony (although it hasn't always been that way), and are seeking reconciliation after the war that destroyed everything.
I was staring at a low-rise apartment building in Mostar. Chunks of cement were falling off and missing. I thought to myself, "How budget... someone should fix that". Then I realized those weren't signs of aging. Those were bullet holes and evidence of heavy bombardment. Bosnians carry on with their lives, but haven't forgotten. They live in a constant reminder of what happened. They look at the bullet holes on their walls. They think about their neighbours that fled to Germany during the War and never came back.
Earlier this month, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia reopened the case of Ratko Mladic. He is a former Bosnian Serb military leader who played a key role in the massacre of more than 7,000 Bosniak men and boys at Srebrenica. Especially, as a woman, I feel ashamed of humanity - an estimated 12,000 to 50,000 women were systematically raped as an instrument of terror during the Bosnian War. 20 years isn't a long time, and it would take longer to heal the wounds of the War.
The overwhelming majority of Bosnians that we met on this trip were kind, hospitable and generous (including the macho Bosniak with Hulk Hogan muscles that served us a plate of grilled food and fries at a restaurant in Pocitelj). I sincerely hope that the bad days are behind us, and these good-natured people enjoy a life of prosperity and peace.
For those of my generation who grew up watching images of cities under siege, snipers, and other forms of destruction during the Balkan Wars, Bosnia and Herzegovina carries a somewhat third-world image. Out of the six nations created from the former Yugoslavia (Serbia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Slovenia, Croatia), Bosnia & Herzegovina has the lowest GDP per capita. At $9,833 per capita in 2014 (World Bank), Bosnia is among the least wealthy countries in Europe.
 |
| Map of former Yugoslavia (Source: Mappery) |
The Government of Canada recommends that you "exercise a high degree of caution (regarding) the risk of unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance, particularly in isolated mountainous areas and in the countryside" while traveling in Bosnia. The war-torn image coupled with discouraging travel advisory is an easy excuse to skip over this country.
Driven by cautious curiosity though, we rented a car in Dubrovnik and spent two days exploring a small southern portion of this under-marketed country. It turned out to be by far my favourite part of the trip, and I highly recommend visiting Bosnia.
At the danger of sounding like an ignorant spoiled brat, I admit that it takes a lot to wow me nowadays. After seeing the grand boulevards of Paris, the blue fishing boats in Essaouira, and the Potala Palace in Tibet, the standards for impressiveness increase. Consequently, I have a craving for what is exotic, in other words, what is different from things I have already seen and experienced. From this point of view, Bosnia is perfect. The country, having been under the rule of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years, is blessed with a unique cultural melange of European and Turkish influences. Approximately half of the country's population is of Islamic faith with the other half made up of Eastern Orthodox and Catholics. The image of a Catholic church and a mosque standing side-by-side is iconic, and reminds one that peaceful coexistence is possible.
After exiting Croatia, we followed M20 until Trebinje, then getting on M6 all the way to Zavala, our first stop in Bosnia.
Travel Note:
- At the Croatia-Bosnia border, we were asked to present our passports and vehicle insurance certificates. Be sure to have proper documentation ready. Check with your rental car agency whether your car can enter Bosnia
- We had been warned about the underwhelming quality of roads in Bosnia, but encountered no difficulty. Roads are curvy and winding, but enjoyable
- I printed out directions on Google Maps in advance, and followed them with GPS on my iPhone. Roaming worked fine
 |
We enjoyed some comic relief from the appearance of a random cow on a Bosnian highway
|
Located in Zavala, Vjetrenica is the largest cave system in Bosnia, rich in biodiversity. Although most visitors enter the cave with its hourly guided tours, we were allowed to venture out on our own, equipped with hard hats and a flashlight. It is a dark, slippery 30-minute walk until the end of the trail. Other-worldly stalactites and stalagmites welcomed us, and I really enjoyed the visit. We even found an amphibious salamander called Proteus anguinus resting in a small pond. Kind of gross, so google at your own risk.
 |
| Reminiscent of the entrance to Mordor |
Travel Note:
- Wear long sleeves and sturdy shoes (no sandals). It is chilly in the cave
- Euros are widely accepted in Bosnia at a 2:1 exchange rate
We had our first meal in Bosnia at a nearby restaurant in Zavala. The restaurant had a large covered outdoor dining area, overlooking a valley of vines and thorny vegetation. Our first introduction to Bosnian cuisine seemed straight-forward: everything grilled. I ordered cevapcici (Bosnian meatballs). As soon as our orders were placed, two middle-aged Bosnian ladies got to work. The cooking area was equipped with old-school charcoal grills, and they stood there, hand fanning our food to perfection. Cevapcici was served with a generous side of grilled vegetables and fries. Slightly greasy, but delicious.
 |
| Cevapcici |
We continued our journey on M6 to Blagaj. Blagaj is a village-town 15 minutes south of Mostar, our final destination for the day. It is situated at the origin of the Buna river and houses a Dervish monastery which is still in use. I had seen too many photos of Blagaj prior to the trip that it was a little disappointing in person. However, the surreal emerald blue Buna, a steep cliff under which the Dervish monastery sits, and cold breezes from the cave made this spiritual spot dreamlike.
 |
| Blagaj (Source: Devim Tours) |
Travel Note:
- Dervish monastery is a religious building. You'll be asked to cover your hair and legs with scarves provided by the monastery upon entering the building
It was a short drive from Blagaj to Mostar. Mostar is the fifth largest city in Bosnia, but it felt quaint and intimate. We stayed at Muslibegovic House, which is a national monument and doubles up as a hotel. Highly recommended. Where else do you get to sleep in a 19th century aristocratic house built in Turkish style? The lady in charge kindly offered us complimentary drinks to cool us down when we arrived, and was thoughtful and attentive throughout our stay. The house is adorned with intricate Turkish wood carvings, carpets and furniture. Definitely one of the most impressionable accommodations that I have ever stayed at.
 |
| Lobby of Muslibegovic House |
 |
| Muslibegovic House |
We ate dinner at Sadrvan, a restaurant recommended by our hotel, where the theme of everything grilled continued. Onions and peppers stuffed with meat, cheese and grains were heavenly. I was particularly flabbergasted to see dolmades (meat and rice wrapped in vine leafs), a delicacy I first tasted in Greece four years ago. Servings in Bosnia are so generous that what is recommended for one person can feed two.
 |
| Dinner at Sadrvan |
I felt safer walking at midnight in Mostar than parts of Toronto or Chicago. Since our visit was during Ramadan, the streets were vibrant and lively past midnight with people celebrating and kids eating ice cream.
Next morning, we were out and about early to beat the group tours from Sarajevo and Dubrovnik reaching Mostar around midday.
 |
| Old Bridge of Mostar |
 |
| Crossing the bridge |
 |
| Brave souls that jump off the bridge for money |
The Old Bridge in Mostar is an icon. Prior to my trip, I read The Fracture Zone by Simon Winchester. He describes a dramatic moment during the Bosnian War:
"The bridge was built well, and for a while it stood up to the barrage of shellfire from the Croats on the hills above town. The Muslims, with a mixture of pride, affection and simple economic need, tried their best to protect the old structure with automobile tires, hung over the edge as fenders, to minimize damage from shrapnel. But they were no match for the sustained and willful cannonade. One day late that autumn, and with an exhausted and exasperated roar that could be heard above the gunfire, the old bridge collapsed, its last stones - which had been painstakingly carved by Turkish masons in 1566 - crashing into the canyon and being swept downstream with the current. One should not mourn lost architecture so much as lost people, I suppose: But this was one of the loveliest bridges in the world"
Destruction of the Old Bridge in Mostar (Youtube)
The bridge was finally reconstructed in 2004, reviving as many artistic and technical details of the original bridge as possible. The engineers quarried fragments of the original bridge from the riverbed, and incorporated them into the new bridge. It is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Next, we were on a mission to find a wedding present for our two newlywed friends, A & P. There is a bazaar, full of shops selling everything from tacky souvenirs to world-class ceramic arts, metalwork and paintings. We wanted to find something as authentically Bosnian as possible.
 |
| Walking through the cobble-stoned bazaar |
It was surprisingly easy to find our guy. Unlike other shopkeepers who were saluting passing tourists, Adnan was focused on his work (within the comfort of air conditioning). Adnan is an even-tempered Bosniak who specializes in copper art. All the works displayed in the shop are his babies. We bought a handmade copper artwork which features pomegranates, a symbol of Mostar and prosperity and fertility. I can't wait to tell A & P that I wish them a life of prosperity and lots of children!
 |
| Adnan at work |
It was a boiling hot 40 degrees in Mostar, and we were ready to hit the road.
 |
| 39.5 degrees! |
Pocitelj is located 30 minutes south of Mostar by car. It is a small fortified village located on the left bank of the river Neretva, in existence since the Middle Ages. It was a steep 10-minute hike to the top of the hill on which the watchtower is located. It offers a vantage point, overlooking the river valley.
 |
| On my way to the watchtower |
 |
| Panoramic view from the watchtower |
Pocitelj is on the tentative list for UNESCO, but there was only a handful of tourists and souvenir vendors around. It was a precious experience, absorbing the atmosphere amongst this idyllic scenery and timelessness.
We walked into a fruit vendor by the highway. We bought a dozen of ripe peaches. "2 marks" (= $1.50), she said with a smile. I grabbed a couple of Bosnian peppers. How much is it now? "2 marks". Obviously she doesn't do this for money. "These peppers are from my garden", she said with a hint of agrarian pride. Her kindness and contagious smile reminded me again of how hospitable Bosnians have been to us.
We were headed to the infamous Kravice Waterfalls next, located half an hour away by car. Unlike Pocitelj, be prepared to be surrounded by herds of Polish, Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian tourists.
 |
| Kravice Waterfalls |
Standing under a waterfall blew all my fatigue away after roaming around Bosnia in 40 degree weather. There was a group of middle-aged men with beer bellies, standing under large offshoots of the waterfalls, probably in great pain, as if it was a symbol of their masculinity.
Kravice was the last stop on our two-day Bosnian odyssey, and we headed back to Dubrovnik. I lament that we didn't have sufficient time to travel to Sarajevo and explore other parts of the country.
Prior to my trip, people raised their eyebrows when I mentioned "Bosnia", and asked "What's there to see?". The beauty of the Balkan Peninsula doesn't stop at the Croatian border. It extends well into Bosnia where people of multiple religions and ethnicities live in harmony (although it hasn't always been that way), and are seeking reconciliation after the war that destroyed everything.
I was staring at a low-rise apartment building in Mostar. Chunks of cement were falling off and missing. I thought to myself, "How budget... someone should fix that". Then I realized those weren't signs of aging. Those were bullet holes and evidence of heavy bombardment. Bosnians carry on with their lives, but haven't forgotten. They live in a constant reminder of what happened. They look at the bullet holes on their walls. They think about their neighbours that fled to Germany during the War and never came back.
Earlier this month, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia reopened the case of Ratko Mladic. He is a former Bosnian Serb military leader who played a key role in the massacre of more than 7,000 Bosniak men and boys at Srebrenica. Especially, as a woman, I feel ashamed of humanity - an estimated 12,000 to 50,000 women were systematically raped as an instrument of terror during the Bosnian War. 20 years isn't a long time, and it would take longer to heal the wounds of the War.
The overwhelming majority of Bosnians that we met on this trip were kind, hospitable and generous (including the macho Bosniak with Hulk Hogan muscles that served us a plate of grilled food and fries at a restaurant in Pocitelj). I sincerely hope that the bad days are behind us, and these good-natured people enjoy a life of prosperity and peace.
